Tangssant Viennoiserie marries East and West in a tempting lineup of gloriously lofty laminated pastries in Toronto’s Yonge-Dundas area.
“I wanted to let customers know that our croissants are made by Chinese people,” explains Tangssant’s co-owner, chef Huang, of the bakery’s name.
“The Tang Dynasty was the strongest time of China in ancient times. We’re trying to combine the culture of China and France.”
Created around that precise premise, Tangssant’s menu lists a giddy number of sweet and savoury items, many made with Asian components. “They have ingredients from Chinese culture, like the sticky rice or the coconut filling,” says Huang.
In a brand-new space that opened in September, Huang and business partner May Sun have created a minimalist, modern bakery where little distracts from a packed display of crackly, golden, butter-rich treats.
“I like the idea of starting from scratch,” says Huang, a George Brown alum. “I didn’t want to take over another bakery.”
What also appealed to Huang was the idea of being his own boss. “I’m very focused on quality. When you work for another owner, they need to think about costs, etc. I couldn’t always reach the quality I want. I wanted to make the decisions. Do my products, my way.”
With a focus on excellence, flavour and texture, Huang and the team have learned how to use Canadian products that best mimic European finds.
“In Ontario, I think it’s pretty hard to find ingredients that are like in France. The consistency in Canadian butter and French butter is very different. I did a lot of experiments. Finally, I found a way to use Canadian butter to get to this result. It’s pretty difficult.”
In every recipe, Huang values layering flavours and creating pastries that tickle the tongue with sweetness, rather than wallop it with sugar. “Our flavour is more Asian,” he explains. “Our sweetness is less. We don’t want super sweet.”
Rather than exaggerate a single note, he approaches baking like a mixologist approaches the bar. “I like to combine different flavours. For example, I make raspberry jam with lychee to make the flavour more complete, more complex.”
To build his Raspberry Danish ($8.99), he tops laminated dough with lemon-flecked cream cheese and almond cream, a dollop of that bright jam and a handful of fresh berries. “I mix sweet with sour. I like balance instead of just one flavour.”
In the regular rotation, there are bronzed Butter Croissants ($4.99) and Pains au Chocolat ($6.49) made with robust Valrhona 48 per cent batons. “We always have classics,” says Huang, adding that the team plans to add new products every month.
For now, the adventurous with an eye for savoury snacks can sample the chubby Sauerkraut and Spam ($6.49) pastry. Best eaten warm, to melt its garnish of cheddar cheese, it’s salty, buttery and a little sharp.
Banana Danish ($6.49) — made with almond cream, a tidy ring of caramelized bananas and dark chocolate crisp pearls — tastes ripe, sweet and exactly like the blessed offspring of banana bread and a plain croissant.
Though the menu includes plenty of classic drinks, like Americanos ($4.25) and Hot Chocolate ($5.75), daily specials highlight the team’s creative side.
A thick blanket of cocoa obscuring its whipped mascarpone foam, the Tiramisu Iced Latte ($8.80) is a pick-me-up drink and dessert all rolled into one.
Refreshing with creamy umami notes, Raspberry Lychee Matcha ($8.88) is a cold quencher that’s, naturally, only subtly sweetened.
Go for a timeless classic or a novel creation at Tangssant—either way, you’re promised a pastry with impossible height and meltingly tender layers made by an immensely talented team.
Tangssant Viennoiserie is located at 193 Church Street.